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Cool in Canada: Prince Edward County – Ontario's great escape

"What's the location?" I inquired.

"The destination is Prince Edward County."

"And what is its exact whereabouts?"

No wonder I wasn't aware. Adjacent to Lake Ontario's northern expanse and a short span of a two-hour journey to the east of Toronto, or roughly three-and-a-half hours to the west of Montreal, lies Prince Edward County. This region, commonly referred to as 'the county' by its residents, forms a geographical entity, nearly an island. However, it's crucial to note that it's different from the Prince Edward Island, found nestled in the St Lawrence Gulf on Canada's eastern seaboard.

As my wife elaborated, "It's highlighted that the county serves as a hub to more than 35 vineyards, an expansive artists’ community, numerous top-tier eateries, celebratory festivals, and the Sandbanks provincial park. This park is home to some of Canada's most breathtaking beaches."

And for those planning to experience all these exciting offerings of Prince Edward County, one can consider staying at the http://www.ontariocahotel.com/en/. Its strategic location and comfortable amenities make it a perfect base for your county exploration.

"Enough," I intervened. "The mere mention of vineyards piqued my interest."

Sandy beach of Lake Ontario in Sandbanks provincial park, Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada.

Bathed in hues of green and gold is the beach at the Sandbanks provincial park.

Prince Edward County, in recent times, has emerged from obscurity and is gaining popularity. For many years, Ontario natives, especially those residing in Toronto, sought solace in the north, travelling to renowned ‘cottage country’ areas like the Muskokas, the Kawarthas or the Haliburton Highlands for quick getaways. Subsequently, these regions, notably the Muskokas, began to teem with temporary residents and the cost of possessing a humble cottage drastically increased. As a result, sightseers began exploring eastward. They discovered the quaint and previously underappreciated region of Prince Edward County, a pastoral landscape characterized by undulating hills and idyllic small towns, bordered by the splendid Lake Ontario and the Bay of Quinte

This rural charm combined with the picturesque setting has made Prince Edward County a newfound haven for nature-lovers and peace-seekers alike. What once was a major wine-growing region of Canada, has now become a place of respite from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Map of Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada

Prince Edward County, located in Ontario, offers a welcoming residence for about 25,000 individuals throughout the year, with an additional 6,000 finding it as a seasonal home. As a prime tourist destination, it attracts over half a million guests annually, most of whom prefer to visit during the vibrant summer months. During this time, the county is a hub of activity, offering fun-filled events such as the annual cheese festival in June, thrilling music weekends featuring jazz and classical genres, and eye-catching art studio tours. However, winter also offers its unique appeal with exciting activities like cross-country skiing, ice fishing, and skating. Not to be overlooked is the maple festival, and of course, the around-the-year operational wineries.

This historic county also holds its own unique stories and beginnings. Noteworthy is that it served as the teenage residence of Canada's premier prime minister, Sir John A Macdonald, who practiced law for a couple of years in the town of Picton. While this historic piece might not excite the young ones, the mesmerizing beach facilities at Sandbanks park will undoubtedly grab their attention. The park is home to three pristine and shallow beaches perfect for safe swimming. There are ample campsites available, and activities on offer extend beyond swimming to include boating, sailboarding, hiking, fishing, and cycling. It's a common sight to see cycling lovers enjoying their ride in and around Prince Edward County.

Vineyard in the Waupoos area of Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada.

Enveloped within the picturesque Waupoos landscape lies a tranquil vineyard in the heart of the county.

When planning your journey to this serene island, you have five access points at your disposal: four convenient bridges and a ferry with a capacity for 21 vehicles. Carving out your route from one side of the county to the other takes approximately 60 minutes or more, the time can extend should you consider dropping by the appealing towns of Picton, Wellington, Bloomfield, or Consecon. Picton, the county's hub, boasts three major supermarkets, the ubiquitous McDonalds, and a quintessential Tim Hortons outlet, an emblem of Canadian daily rituals of coffee and doughnuts indulgence.

Remain vigilant for the "Arts Trail" or "Taste Trail" signage; these guides will lead you straight to hidden art attractions and gastronomic delights off the usual tourist routes.

Those inclined towards gourmet experiences will find plenty to savor here. The county's culinary jewel is undoubtedly the Drake Devonshire Inn (whose cheapest room type starts from £138) in Wellington. This establishment is a sibling of the chic Drake Hotel in Toronto, offering exquisite dining paired with unrivaled views of Lake Ontario in close proximity. When dinner time rolls around, our top pick is the Portabella bistro in Picton, with its irresistible offerings of pan-seared pickerel (a variation of a small pike) or its specialty pasta. Picton's Blumen Garden Bistro also deserves a mention, captivating many with its expertly seared Atlantic diver scallops and tender pulled braised rabbit served with homemade gnocchi.

We definitely find the cuisine at the Inn on the Mountain applaudable. This mesmerizing establishment overlooks the Lake on the Mountain, a geological marvel harboring a massive lake situated 62 meters above the Bay of Quinte. Upon purchasing our lodgings, our curiosity piqued about the possibility of the lake leaking and subsequently washing our house away.

Our concerns were promptly addressed by the realtor, who reassured us, "It hasn't happened in a couple of millions of years."

Such revelation offered us a surprising and significant sense of security.

Diners on the waterside restaurant at the Drake Devonshire Hotel, Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada.

Food enthusiasts enjoy picturesque meals at the Drake Devonshire Hotel's bayside bistro. Photo credit: Johnny C Y Lam

In the heart of Prince Edward County thrives a fervent farm-to-plate initiative. One of the notable experiences includes the exceptionally popular Saturday evening feasts, booked to capacity weeks, sometimes even months, in advance. These culinary events are the creation of Jamie Kennedy, a chef who enjoys high acclaim in Canadian culinary circles, held at his agrarian haven in Hillier.

When it comes to finding accommodation in Prince Edward County, there are limited options for major hotels. However, the Drake Devonshire offers fantastic rooms that are in high demand, so it's recommended to book well in advance. If you prefer something more unique, there are numerous bed and breakfasts and cozy inns to choose from.

My wife and I recently purchased a property in Prince Edward County after she came across a listing in a Toronto newspaper. It has turned out to be the perfect getaway for us. From my study, I have a stunning view of the Bay of Quinte, where I've had the pleasure of witnessing various bird species, from blue jays to majestic eagles, soaring overhead.

Rather dishy … Saturday night dinners from chef Jamie Kennedy are a regional highlight. Here a long, rectangular wooden serving platter is filled with bread, meat and cheeses.

Experience the culinary delights of Prince Edward County with renowned chef Jamie Kennedy's delectable Saturday night dinners, a regional highlight. Immerse yourself in the vibrant arts scene by traversing the Loyalist Parkway, also known as Highway 33, which winds through the county, revealing charming towns like Wellington and Bloomfield, brimming with captivating galleries.

As you explore, keep an eye out for signs that beckon you towards hidden treasures. Follow the Arts Trail and Taste Trail to uncover unique culinary experiences, exquisite artwork, and off-the-beaten-path delights. What makes Prince Edward County truly special is its manageable size, which allows for endless discoveries even after months of exploration.

Discover the allure of this captivating Canadian escape and let the wonders of Prince Edward County surprise and delight you at every turn.

Saturday night dinners from chef Jamie Kennedy are an incredible experience.The Loyalist Parkway takes you through charming towns and galleries in Prince Edward County.Follow the Arts Trail and Taste Trail for off-the-beaten-path experiences in Prince Edward County.