Fringed by vast mountain ranges of the Alps and Jura, Geneva straddles the River RhĂ´ne at the south-western end of Lake Leman (otherwise known as Lake Geneva), one of the largest freshwater lakes in Europe
Every year thousands of skiers pass through Geneva airport’s arrivals hall, bypass the city and head straight for the mountains. They are missing out. As well as being a gateway to the Alps and European headquarters for the United Nations, Geneva has a rich and colourful history of religious turmoil and revolution, a handful of fascinating museums and grand monuments.
Fringed by vast mountain ranges of the Alps and Jura, Geneva straddles the River Rhône at the south-western end of Lake Leman (otherwise known as Lake Geneva), one of the largest freshwater lakes in Europe. Its strategic importance as a shallow crossing point was a reason for Roman occupation in 121 BC and the high ground on the northern shore was the first area to be developed as a trading settlement.
Discover the captivating charm of Geneva's Old Town, a cherished part of the city's history and designated as a national heritage site. Wander through the labyrinthine cobbled streets, hidden courtyards, and narrow passages, where you'll find cozy bars, charming cafés, and intriguing antique shops.
A wonderful starting point for your journey is the Maison Tavel museum, dating back to the 14th century. Immerse yourself in history as you explore the 3D models that showcase the city's former fortifications and vast ramparts that once encircled it until the 19th century.
Just a stone's throw away, you'll encounter the majestic Cathedral of St Pierre. Venture up its main tower, climbing 157 steps, and be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views. Marvel at the shimmering Lake Geneva, adorned with the iconic Jet d'eau fountain. This remarkable landmark propels an astonishing 132 gallons of water to a staggering altitude of 459ft every second. As you enjoy the view, you may also spot the distinct yellow taxis boats, resembling industrious wasps, buzzing with passengers on their journeys across the lake.
The cathedral, along with its small chapel next door, was the home church of John Calvin, one of key leaders of the Protestant Reformation. An atmospherically, bare interior still houses the preacher’s flat-backed chair.
The 330ft-long Reformation Wall built into the old city wall nearly a century ago to mark the 400th anniversary of Calvin’s birth commemorates the key role Geneva played in the religious tumult of 16th-century Europe. It also depicts other prominent Protestant leaders, including Oliver Cromwell and Scottish-born John Knox, who translated the Bible into English and lived in Geneva in the 1550s.
Did you know?
Forty per cent of the population of Geneva are non-nationals
You can get to grips with the polemics and examine rare copies of the Bible at the International Museum of the Reformation, housed in the 18th-century Mallet House built on the site where the people of Geneva voted to adopt these new religious ideas in 1536.
The art of Swiss clock-making also has its roots in this restless era. French Huguenots brought their skills to Geneva and you can see the results at the Patek Phillippe Museum. Highlights include an astronomical watch dating from the 1660s.
Curiously, the austere Calvin, who banned jewellery and other frivolous nick-nacks, allowed the manufacture of these exquisitely enamelled timepieces. His acceptance of them as useful and functional items was fortunate not only for the livelihood of fugitive craftsmen and goldsmiths in the 16th-century but for modern-day visitors too.
Making Your Way There
The reputable Swiss Air (swiss.com) offers flights from Heathrow and London City Airport directly to the heart of Geneva, with round trip fares starting from a reasonable £94. Additionally, esteemed airlines British Airways (ba.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com) also provide travel services from London as well as other regional UK airports. On arrival, air passengers are granted the convenience of a free short train transfer from the airport, an easy and cost-effective way to get started on your Swiss adventure. For those preferring a more direct route, taxi services are readily available at an average price range of £25-£32, with an estimated journey time of about 30 minutes.
The best hotels
Hotel Jade ££
Quiet, 47-room hotel near the botanical gardens, lake and United Nations headquarters. No on-site restaurant, but several close by (22 544 3838; manotel.com; double rooms from £109).
Hotel la Cour des Augustins ££
Smart, boutique hotel on the Rue Jean-Violette (on tram 12 route, a short ride to the Old Town). Small comfortable doubles or larger rooms with kitchenettes (ask for rooms 303 or 305); (22 322 2100; lacourdesaugustins.com; double rooms from £155, breakfast £16.50)
If you prefer more homely comforts and space, consider renting an apartment instead. Explore a variety of Switzerland apartments on www.top-hotels-switzerland.com that offer the similar convenient locations with additional facilities.
Hotel de La Paix £££
One of the several grand hotels which line the Quai du Mont-Blanc with large, luxurious rooms overlooking the lake or the quiet garden at the rear. Striking, marble atrium lobby and excellent restaurant on site (0800 028 9880; concorde-hotels.com; double rooms from £285).
For more options of luxury stays in this beautiful country, you can visit tophotels.com, a platform providing details about top-notch hotels within Switzerland. Feel free to explore and find a place that suits your preference and budget.
Gourmet Spots in Geneva
Café du Centre £-££
Located in the buzzing Place du Molard, Café du Centre is a popular rendezvous point for locals, known especially for its fresh, tasty fish dishes. You can reach them at 22 311 8586 or visit their website at cafeducentre.ch.
Les Armures Restaurant ££
Visit the Les Armures Restaurant tucked in the heart of the old town for some traditional Swiss fare. Relish on raclette and fondue while relaxing in the Salle des Artistes or their cosy outdoor terrace. They can be contacted at 22 310 9172 and hotel-les-armures.ch.
Vertig’O £££
For the ultimate gastronomic experience, check out Vertig’O. While being the crown jewel of Hotel de la Paix, Michelin-starred Vertig’O is renowned for chef Jérôme Manifacier's signature French cuisines. You can get in touch with them at 22 909 6073 or visit hoteldelapaix.ch.
Delving into Geneva
Upon checking in at your accommodation, ensure to get the complimentary Geneva transport card that comes free for guests. This card is your gate pass to all the city's public transportation.
Experience the beauty of Geneva and its environs by traversing on two wheels. Genève Roule Association is your hub for bike rentals, visit their site at geneveroule.ch. If you need guidance for the best paths for biking, head to veloland.ch for their expert suggestions.
The unique experience of a yellow taxi-boat awaits you on Geneva's waters. The Geneva Gulls or "Mouettes Genevoises" can be accessed freely with your transport card and run at intervals of 10 to 30 minutes from the downtown stations. For more information, you can visit mouettesgenevoises.ch.
Savor the city's cuisine without breaking the bank by opting for cost-effective lunch menus. Premier city eateries present exquisite two to three-course menus priced on or around £32, while simpler daily specials are available for around £11.
What to avoid
Taking an expensive taxi from the airport. The train fare is free if you pick up a ticket in the baggage reclaim hall. Departures are regular and the journey takes just six minutes to the city centre (alight at Genève-Cornavin station).
Forgetting to take your passport if you want to join a guided tour of the Palais des Nations (unog.ch), the European headquarters of the United Nations. Proof of identity is required for daily tours. Tour times vary, so check before you go.
Buying a Geneva Pass unless you’re planning a full-on programme of sightseeing. These are available for 24, 48 or 72 hours and cost from £18. See geneva-pass.com.