Klosters, Switzerland, is not just a ski resort, but also a place where celebrities mingle with the locals and create a unique atmosphere. While dining with Christian Erpenbeck, the manager of Silvretta Parkhotel, and his wife Kristina, owner of Pine Cone interiors shop, we gaze out the window and spot one of the village's famous residents.
Klosters has a history of attracting A-listers, from Hollywood stars like Paul Newman and Lauren Bacall in the 1950s to political figures like Nicolas Sarkozy and Carla Bruni. But it's not just the celebrities that make Klosters special. The man walking barefoot in the snow, despite the freezing temperatures, adds to the charming scenery of this Swiss town.
No other world-famous Alpine resort disguises its affluence, glamour and stellar celebrity patronage with quite as much unflappable nonchalance as Klosters. It is a Swiss bank account of winter-sports destinations: cosmopolitan, understated, tucked away, rigorously organised, well mannered, secure and discreet.
Part of Klosters' charm stems from its quintessential Swiss character, including the top-notch accommodations that it offers. Finding a comfy and luxe place to stay is no sweat in this resort town. You can find some of the best and affordable hotel deals in Switzerland at top-hotels-switzerland.com. So whether you're here for the snowy slopes or the discreet glamour, rest assured that you have a wide array of lodging options that meet the highest Swiss standards.
'Actually, culturally and socially speaking, the way things are done and the way people behave, I think it's much more like Scotland,' corrects Klosters regular Ben Elliot. 'It's not fancy, it's not sceney, it doesn't have rocking nightclubs and bars.' Elliot, who is the son of interior designer Annabel Elliot (née Shand, Camilla Parker Bowles's sister) first came here with his dad 'who had first come with his father'. 'As young boys my cousin Tom Parker Bowles, Zac Goldsmith and I would be packed off to Klosters during the summer on these slightly militaristic, toughening-up, outdoor holidays. Of course, it never succeeded in toughening us up, but we grew to love it.'
Elliot is now married to Mary-Clare Winwood, daughter of the musician Steve Winwood, co-incidentally and conveniently also a Klosters homeowner. 'You go to Klosters for the skiing. Everything else is low-key and unpretentious. It's no frills. Spartan. A bit eccentric.' He once spotted Renée Zellweger at the restaurant of the Wynegg hotel. 'She was being shouted at by the hotel's notoriously fierce and bossy owner, the late Ruth Guler, for the crime of sitting at the wrong table. Poor thing didn't know what had hit her.' Once, Elliot tells me, a male guest, on seeing that he had been given a room with two single beds, made the mistake of asking Guler if he could swap for a double. 'You are not here to sleep,' she countered curtly. 'You are here to ski.'
Klosters ski resort, Switzerland, offers a unique experience that sets it apart from its glamorous counterparts in St Moritz and Gstaad. While these other destinations may cater to the wealthy elite, Klosters has a different charm altogether.
Forget about flashy displays of wealth or ostentatious luxury. Instead, immerse yourself in the welcoming community of Klosters, where active skiers, outdoor enthusiasts, and even Scandinavian royalty come together to enjoy the slopes. With a population of around 6,177 and an elevation of 1,200 meters above sea level, this alpine village has a down-to-earth vibe.
What sets Klosters apart from the crowd is its authentic Swiss experience. Here, you won't find hedge-funders or an excess of luxury fashion boutiques. Rather, the village boasts charming antiques shops, local pharmacies, and cozy ski rental outfits. When it's time for lunch, swap sushi for a hearty plate of rösti and indulge in a slice of delicious cremeschnitte cake at the Skihütte Gruobenalp. You may even be treated to a spontaneous yodeling performance from fellow diners.
In Klosters, it's all about appreciating the simple pleasures in life. While St Moritz showcases high-end fashion brands, Klosters offers a well-stocked Co-op supermarket as its flagship store. For a rejuvenating massage, head to the Residenz Vereina, where a skilled masseur will provide a therapeutic session to ease tired muscles. This ski resort has a refreshing focus on wellness and adventure, rather than lavish indulgence.
The fire at Restaurant HöhwaldJenny Zarins
There isn't a single five-star hotel in Klosters. A few years back the Campbell Gray group made an attempt to build one, but the scheme seems to have fizzled out. 'A five-star hotel would send out all the wrong messages, attract a different kind of visitor,' says Christian Erpenbeck with a wry smile. 'We wouldn't want that.' He takes me for dinner at the delightful Berghaus Alpenrösli restaurant, high up on the edge of the village with spectacular views of the Gotschna mountains, and tells me another amusing story of denial and rebuff. It is rumoured that Nat Rothschild tried to buy the restaurant and convert it into a private home with a helipad. A chopper flying up and down the valley? Nicht möglich said the locals and gave permission for the restaurant to get a make-over instead.
The Klosters way, it seems, is all about modesty, old money, living well, a sense of fair play, skiing hard, honour and hearty, and unpretentious good times. But, truth be told, celebrity endorsement is what put Klosters on the map in the first place.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle visited the Davos Klosters region as early as the 1890s, discovering the thrill of the slopes and the restorative air with his wife, who was suffering from tuberculosis. 'I am convinced that there will come a time when hundreds of Englishmen will come to Switzerland for the skiing season,' he wrote. He was right. But it was the Americans who came first.
Back in the 1940s, Walter Haensli, a noted ski instructor and racer from Klosters, was in St Moritz training the American women's team. Visitor Jack Heinz (of the Heinz foodstuffs behemoth) befriended him and, on the promise of some outstanding skiing, followed Haensli back to Klosters. Every subsequent year, encouraged by John Jay's documentary about the 1948 St Moritz Winter Olympics, some of which was actually shot in Klosters, more and more Americans arrived.
View of the Alps from Weissfluh peakJenny Zarins
The Chesa Grischuna hotel (locals just call it the Chesa) soon became a second home for Peter Sellers, David Niven, Vivien Leigh, Truman Capote, Orson Welles and Julie Andrews. Famously, Gene Kelly danced on the tables in the cellar bar. Rex Harrison pored over scripts of My Fair Lady while Audrey Hepburn played skittles in the rustic bowling alley.
Writer Irwin Shaw - best known for his novel The Young Lions (the film version starred Montgomery Clift and Marlon Brando) and Rich Man, Poor Man (adapted into one of the first TV mini-series) - set up home in Klosters in the 1950s. 'Skiers formed a loose international club and the same faces kept turning up year after year,' wrote Shaw, who recalled Greta Garbo taking long walks along the banks of Klosters' Landquart river 'with a straw hat over her ears and an incongruous "frowner" on her nose.' One day, at lunch, the reclusive actress mistakenly called one of America's most brilliant and outspoken writers 'Vigo Redal'. Gore Vidal loved her for it and they became promenading, Alpine-air-taking friends. Interior designer Nicky Haslam, who first visited Klosters in the 1960s and has since created several homes in the region, remembers Garbo making a daily walk to the newsstand at the Klosters-Platz railway station 'where she would take a long examination of all the movie-star magazines so she could see what was going on in Hollywood'.
A wooden house on Landstrasse in KlostersJenny Zarins
The only nightclub in town, Casa Antica, opened in 1959. The New York society model sisters Marisa and Berry Berenson used to play 45s there. A young Anjelica Huston met her photographer boyfriend Arnaud de Rosnay on the dance floor.
The notion of Klosters as Hollywood on the Rocks was fast fading by the time the British royal family arrived in the 1970s, but Prince Charles's low-key appearances soon won him approval in the village. 'The Prince eats lunch at one of the cheapest places around,' reads an entry in the Chesa hotel's ledger. 'He was dancing at the Casa Antica… hires skis that he carries himself and invariably travels second class on the sports train.' It also seems that the prince was fond of a rub down after a day on the mountain.
Enter recent divorcee Clair Southwell, who was working as a masseuse over in Flims. 'I'll never forget the phone call,' she says. 'Can you come over to Klosters to massage Prince Charles?' She arrived, and never left.
For a while Southwell worked as the Prince's personal assistant, and her duties included organising the annual Klosters press call '…which Charles hated. He really just wanted to ski.' On one occasion, she tells me, the heir to the throne turned up to meet the bank of photographers in a Groucho Marx false nose and glasses.
Southwell now hosts Mongolian and Qatari guests during the economic forum (Klosters is officially linked with big-brother resort Davos) and arranges events such as the Christmas Day English carol service at the 13th-century church. 'Absolutely packed every year,' she says. 'After a good sing-song, we all head down to Casa Antica where there's free Champagne. New Year's Day is when the local farmers [many of whom are also ski instructors] stage a piglet race down the main street.'
The reading room at Chalet EugeniaJenny Zarins
She also manages a number of smart rentals, such as the immaculate modern-rustic Casa Bawald apartment near the church, owned and designed by gardener John Coke, founder of Bury Court Opera in Surrey. It's available to rent at a remarkably reasonable rate. But, this being Klosters, it's a word-of-mouth deal only and Southwell vets any applications to make sure they are Klosters insiders.
Prince Andrew is known to favour the grander pleasures and panoramic views available up the hill at Chalet Eugenia. It was originally built by Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza in 1958, and its new owner, Rolf Theiler, a Swiss entrepreneur and philanthropist, has added a basement swimming pool and redecorated everything in super-plush, Heidi-married-an-oligarch style. A week here during peak winter season (and the Davos forum) starts from around £50,000. Champagne is included. It's a ski-in, ski-out kind of place, naturally.
'With all the fuss about the royals and the film stars, people sometimes forget to mention how good the skiing is in Klosters,' says Ben Elliot. The Parsenn ski area is 307km of groomed pistes - loads of motorway-wide reds and blues make it ideal for families. But more advanced skiers will recommend run number 24, a cruise through the trees towards a lunch at the Alte Schwendi restaurant. From here you can tackle the 12km Parsenn run down to the railway station at Kublis.
Elliot likes to get up early, have a hot chocolate at the top of the Gotschna gondola and then clatter down the Parsenn Weissfluhjoch black run. 'We stop and have a rösti lunch at Wolf's Den in the Hotel Kulm. Then we take the funicular railway back up to the Davos side of the mountain. It's an annual ritual.'
For me, skiing in Klosters feels like falling through a time-travel crevasse, back to an era when winter sports attracted strapping types who thrilled at the chilly brace of mountain air and the rush of hard-packed snow beneath their boots. When Alpine villages were quaint, immaculate and slightly mysterious; when après ski meant tea and cake in front of an open a fire. Maybe it it's the clean air, maybe it's the long and testing ski days, or the carb-loading lunches, but every night in Klosters I go to bed early, sleep like a baby and rise bright and early the next day. Ready to take on the mountain and the cremeschnitte.
Discover Exceptional Accommodations in Klosters
Chesa Grischuna: Your Home Away from Home
Chesa Grischuna, an enchanting getaway situated in the heart of the town, is steeped in an antique charm and known for its delectable culinary offerings. Radiating a comforting warmth, this family-owned treasure caters to guests seeking an unassuming stay. Though the hotel doesn't house a spa, swimming pool, or large televisions, their charming aesthetics and convivial ambiance more than compensate for it. A visit isn't complete without appreciating the provocative artwork of renowned Swiss artist, Alois Carigiet, that adorn the property, and unwinding in the famed bar. Room rates for a couple start from approximately £215.
The Walserhof Hotel
The Walserhof has often welcomed Prince Charles, accompanied by his sons, into its warm and inviting premises. The accommodation offerings are exclusively suites, providing guests with ample space boasting two bedrooms and two bathrooms. These suites exude a modern yet genuine Alpine charm, adorned with earthly elements such as animal-skin throws. Their open fireplaces endow a cosy ambience, and the balconies proffer breathtaking mountainous scenes. The hotel also prides itself on its Michelin-starred restaurant. Pricing for suites (which accommodate four guests) begins at approximately £475. Notably, the hotel's guests have the opportunity to ski in one of the world's top winter destinations, Klosters, just a stone's throw away from their suite. So it's no wonder that it lures both Swiss locals and international vacationers year after year.
Hotel Piz Buin
The Hotel Piz Buin recently underwent a significant refurbishment, resulting in the addition of an inviting swimming pool, state-of-the-art gym facilities, and a charming piano bar. The updated design leans into a contemporary take on the traditional gentlemen's club aesthetic, featuring an abundance of luxurious, cushioned leather seating and stag-themed decor. Despite the evident opulence, the Hotel Piz Buin presents an understated elegance typical of Klosters. In any other location, this establishment would undoubtedly be awarded five stars. Per night, a double room starts from approximately £185.
Klosters is a Swiss ski resort town renowned for its low-profile luxury, and Hotel Piz Buin fits in perfectly with its disarmingly humble approach to five-star services. The newly installed leisure facilities provide guests with the perfect place to unwind after a day on the slopes.
Silvretta Parkhotel
Built in 1870, this is a big, friendly and efficiently run family hotel with an indoor pool, spa, sauna, three restaurants, a piano bar and kids' club. Rooms have a view of the impressive Silvretta Glacier, after which the hotel is named. The Klosters Platz train station and the gondola to the ski area are a short walk away. Doubles from about £190.
Top Chalets of Klosters
The Bear Chalet
Esteemed carpenter Luzi Jugli built the stunning Chalet Bear, handcrafting it from his own chopped wood, just prior to World War II. In 2005, after his demise, it underwent an empathetic transformation guided by dedicated Klosters resident Gilly Norton. Inside, you'll find spacious bedrooms equipped with artisanal mattresses, elegantly dressed in linen sourced from Oka and The White Company. Spacious bathtubs promise ample comfort after a day on the slopes. Alpine-themed memorabilia and a collection of ski photos imbue a true familial warmth to the chalet. This accommodation can comfortably house eight guests. Weekly rates start around £16,000.
The Exquisite Chalet Eugenia
Chalet Eugenia encapsulates grandeur and luxury. Its opulence is embodied in the enormous rooms outfitted with oak-beamed ceilings, endless balconies, and terraces that offer panoramic sceneries. The bathrooms are spacious, boasting of elevated regality. Adding to the charm are the pillared fireplaces, a testament to timeless taste, antiques that serve as remnants of a rich history, and crystal chandeliers that illuminate art pieces from the jet-set scene. It also offers rejuvenating amenities with an indoor swimming pool and sauna, as well as a waterbed massage for utmost relaxation. For entertainment, a private cinema is made available. The unique advantage of Chalet Eugenia is its direct access to the Heid ski lift, offering an easy transition from luxury living to outdoor adventure. Yet, with all these comforts, you may temptingly choose to stay within its lavish confines. The chalet can host up to 21 guests. Inquiries for the price are welcomed.
The best restaurants in Klosters
Berghaus Alpenrösli
Just outside the town, this self-styled Alpine tavern is both destination restaurant and hotel. Come for the magical views of the Prättigau from the balcony (we're 1,450 metres up here), the rustic comfort of the rooms and the full-moon fondue nights when guests gorge on vacherin gruyère then take a sledge ride down a marked run. About £80 for two
Experience Alp Garfiun
Treat yourself to a unique winter experience with a nocturnal sleigh ride across the snowy expanse, leading you to Alp Garfiun, a traditional rendezvous for fondue enthusiasts. The subtle jingling of bells affixed on the horses' gear acts as a gentle alert for rapidly approaching tobogganists. Equip yourself with snug blankets, warm hats and gloves, and don't forget a flask of schnapps to make your celestial return journey even more memorable. Your indulgence, priced approximately at £80 for a pair.
Restaurant Höhwald
Take a short drive out of town to Monbiel and you'll find this charming place full of locals and Klosters regulars. Staff wear proper Alpine dirndl dresses. Try the wienerschnitzel or spätzli with pear, cheese and roasted onions. About £95 for two